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Bow Basics 101 There are three basic styles of bow. They are the longbow, or traditional bow (Figure 1), the recurve (Figure 2) and the modern compound bow (Figure 3).
Although they vary drastically in appearance, all bows have similar characteristics. They all have limbs to store the bow's energy and they all have a handle or riser section that the limbs are attached to. Lastly, they all use a string to transfer the energy from the bow to the arrow. I will concentrate on the modern compound bow for now. There are several people responsible for making the modern bow so most people could afford them. The two biggest pioneers are probably Fred Bear and Ben Pearson. The modern bow has several components to become familiar with (Figure 4). First it has a riser (handle section) and limbs like every other bow. At the ends of the limbs are the cams or wheels. These are held in place by steel pins called axles. The axle runs through the limb and cam or wheel, securing it to the limb. The axle is then secured in the limb with two small c-clips on each end of the axle. In order to keep the cams or wheels centered on the axle there are bushings on each side of the cam or wheel. There is also a harness assembly known as a cable and a cable guard that extends backward out of the riser assembly. The purpose of the cable guard is to keep the cables out of the way of the arrow. The cables slide on the guard thru the use of a plastic or Teflon slide or cable slide.
There are several terms one should become familiar with when purchasing a new or initial bow. These will assist you in making an informed decision on your choice of bow. First is forgivingness, this is the built in ability of a bow to NOT amplify any flaws in your shooting form. Next is the Axle to Axle length, this is the length of the bow measured from the Centerline of the axles. The trend today seems to be toward shorter lengths. Generally speaking a shorter bow will be faster but less forgiving. Brace height is the measurement from the handle to the string (Figure 4). Say a bow has a 5.5-inch brace height. This means the arrow stays on the string longer thus Multiplying any of your flaws. Short brace heights are not forgiving. A bow with an 8-inch brace height will generally be a touch slower but since the arrow spends less time on the string it will be more forgiving. Speed The speed factor is a big consideration these days. Speed is only a SMALL factor in your total decision. In archery, to gain something you generally have to give up something else. A really fast bow will usually have a shorter axle to axle length and a small brace height, these two factors make a bow less forgiving. The good thing about speed is a flatter trajectory over longer distances. Also a shorter bow will be easier to maneuver in a tree stand or blind. Single (Solo) Cams versus Dual Cams In previous years the dual cam bows were faster than the single cam models, today that is not the case. Both styles are about even in the speed department. The biggest difference between the two is this; on a two-cam bow the timing of the cams must always be perfect so that both cams roll over at the same point in your draw. Timing is not as much of an issue in the single or Solo cam bows of today. The choice between the two is strictly a personal one. General Bow Maintenance All bows will require some "operator level maintenance". It behooves everyone to learn how to properly maintain their bow. The strings and cables should be waxed with bowstring wax at least every third use. You simply rub the wax onto the string then rub it harder until it is absorbed into the strings and cables. Be careful not to put so much wax on that it becomes a magnet for dust and dirt. The object is to keep the string and cables waterproofed and free of debris. When waxing them pay attention to the material and look for fraying or dry rotting. If any of this is found then you should have a pro-shop replace the damaged parts. The axles and bushings on most bows will require lubrication. A couple drops of bow oil on them after every use is a good habit to get into. Failure to keep them lubed will result in the metal axle getting hot and scarring. This will inhibit a smooth draw and the heat generated will cause the plastic bushings to crack or "blow". Consult your owner's manual before lubing them as some newer models are not supposed to be lubed. Also inspect the cams closely to insure they are still centered and straight in the limb. The limbs of the bow should be inspected routinely. Look for cracks, dents or anything that was not there the last time you looked your bow over. The easiest way to accomplish this is to get a cotton ball and rub it up and down the limb. If you have a limb that is splitting the cotton will snag on the portion of the limb in question. If you find a damaged limb DO NOT attempt to repair it yourself. Take it to a pro-shop since most new bows carry a lifetime warranty on the limbs. The best way to maintain the limb bolts is to simply mark them with a paint pen when you get your draw weight set. Then you just have to glance at the marks to tell if the limb bolts have backed out any at all. Buy a good set of Allen wrenches and take the time to tighten all the screws for your accessories while doing all of this. It may seem like a pain to do all this but a modern bow should last a lifetime with proper care and maintenance. *Troy Basso is a freelance outdoor writer and Bowhunting education instructor from Tennessee. |
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